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TEL AVIV

TAKING ON TEL AVIV

WORDS BY ZEAN VILLONGCO
IMAGES BY GABRIEL DELA CRUZ

Ask someone for a name of a city in Israel, and the top answers would most likely be either Tel Aviv or Jerusalem. Ask that someone further which of the two is the country’s capital, and there’s the considerable likelihood that he or she would answer Tel Aviv, which is wrong. While Tel Aviv is Israel’s economic and technological center and has for a time served as a de facto capital, it is Jerusalem which is the declared seat of government of Israel. It has been said by some that “while Jerusalem prays, Tel Aviv plays.”

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Along Rothschild Boulevard within the city center, residential and historic quarters of Bauhaus-style buildings grade into Tel Aviv’s financial district. My guide mentioned that it is among the many upmarket condominium buildings along Rothschild Boulevard that many startup founders who cashed in on their entrepreneurial fortunes decide to live, thus making the Rothschild Boulevard one of the most expensive streets in Tel Aviv.

Despite the city’s seeming hedonism, one would be amiss to readily deem Tel Aviv as lacking any deep cultural or historical roots. There is Carmel Market with its hustle and bustle, as well as its reputation as the largest authentic Middle-Eastern style shuk. And down in the southern part stands the Old City of Jaffa, out of which the modern city of Tel Aviv has grown. Figuring in biblical stories, Jaffa to this day retains many of its historic landmarks.

North of Tel Aviv, within the neighboring city of Haifa, other attractions are within an easy drive. Along the Mediterranean coastline of the municipality of Caesarea lies the archeological site of Caesarea Maritima, the ancient port city built by King Herod the Great in 22 – 9 BCE as a tribute to Caesar Augustus and the Roman Empire. My guide elucidated the magnitude and significance of the place during its heyday, narrating how the port city, complete with a Roman colosseum for gladiatorial combat and a hippodrome for chariot races, could accommodate a hundred ships. Such was the grandeur and commercial importance of Caesarea Maritama that when Judea became a Roman province, the port city replaced Jerusalem as Roman Judea’s civilian and military capital.

Further up north of Caesarea, there is Ramat Hanadiv, an extensive nature park where many Israeli families strolled along the promenades. At the park’s visitor center, a video presentation of the life and work of Baron Edmond James de Rothschild, Israel’s “Great Benefactor,” detailed how the French nobleman contributed to the establishment of the Jewish State of Israel. The story painted how the devotion of one man helped the Jewish people finally find a home in the land of their ancestors.

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