Words and images by Zean Villongco
There was the Dutch windmill replica just upon crossing the bridge over the Melaka River. And right across the street, the red painted edifices of the old Dutch Square, probably the most recognizable landmark in Melaka, stood amidst a crowd of people. Around the Queen Victoria fountain in the center of the square, tourists posed for their travel selfies, while others explored the nearby Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower, the Stadthuys – a former government office which now houses the History and Ethnography Museum, and the Christ Church – an 18th century Anglican church which now stands as the oldest functioning Protestant church in Malaysia. Rows of makeshift merchandise stalls selling motley wares and souvenirs lined the walkways while parked trishaws (pedicabs) colorfully decked out in outlandish, kitschy ornamentations waited for passengers who might be interested for tour rides around this historical town.
Noteworthy for its heritage hotspots, Melaka, the capital city of the state of Malacca in southwestern peninsular Malaysia, is a stunning hodgepodge of sundry cultural influences. Strategically situated along the Strait of Malacca and at the mouth of the sluggish Melaka River, this port town became a major stopping place for ancient traders plying the spice trade routes between China and India, thus developing into the most important trading port in Southeast Asia during the 14th to 15th centuries. Over time, intermarriages between Chinese settlers and local Malays brought forth the Peranakan (also known as Baba Nyonya) ethnic group whose cultural imprints run prevalent in Melakan heritage. Then, in the 16th century, the Western powers came, with Melaka falling under the successive rules of the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British. For a time thereafter, the place became a sleepy backwater town as trade faded during this period of occupation. It was only in the 21st century, when Malaysia gained its independence, that Malacca eventually became a tourist draw.
Aside from visiting its heritage sites, one comes to Melaka to likewise enjoy the cuisine. I had the leisure of relishing some of the best Peranakan dishes during my trip, as I visited the Baba Charlie Café where they served a variety of nyonya kuih – bite-sized snacks and dessert foods usually made from glutinous rice. At Nyonya 63 restaurant, I dined on some steamed assam fish, beef rendang and mutton curry, concluded with a bowl of sweet chendol – a dessert made up of green rice flour jelly, coconut milk and palm sugar syrup on top of crushed ice – something very similar to the Filipinos’ halo-halo.
With its well preserved heritage sites, small town feel and astounding cuisine, it is easy to be enthralled with Melaka. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, and from being a once faded port city, Melaka has since transformed itself into a dynamic tourist hub, with its kaleidoscope of cultures and historical landmarks, making it one of Malaysia’s most irresistible destinations.