As the plane approached the Lio airstrip, the thick clouds idling parted and gave way to a panoramic view of blue waters, a shoreline ringed in white sand and, stretching into the horizon, groves of coconut trees, a carpet of mangroves and thick jungles. I wondered, if this is being touted as the next must-visit destination in El Nido, where is the tropical resort beat and vibe? Where are the chic villas extending languidly from the shoreline into the sea? Where is the throng of beach lovers hogging the shore? What gives?

A few days later, as I sat with Marc Cerqueda, director of operations, I understood why so much of this development seemed to have been left untouched, and handed over to the whims of nature. “All you have to do is look at the view, look out into the sea. There’s something magical about this area called El Nido. Ten years ago, everything was all about Bali and Phuket. But now, the new go-to destination is El Nido,” he said with unconcealed passion.

As such, Lio’s development takes the protection and preservation of El Nido’s natural wonders as a prime consideration. From the airport, visitors go through roads that have been little developed, hemmed by thick forests and, in some areas, traversed by gentle rivulets.

“The vehicle that took you from the airport to the resort runs on electricity,” informs Cerqueda. “We also designed everything to be pedestrian-friendly because we want to limit the carbon emissions in the estate. Here, you can go around barefoot and just feel the soft sand under your feet.”

Situated along the coastline of Bacuit Bay, Lio Tourism Estate is being developed to provide facilities of world-class standards that will strictly adhere to bylaws that aim to protect and preserve the pristine beauty of the environment. Within this enclave is the Lio Estate Resorts – a complex of three hotels, and a dining and shopping strip facing the gentle waters of the bay.

Nearest the entrance is the resort’s first hotel, Casa Kalaw. This low-rise with 42 rooms has been designed following a modern twist on traditional Filipino architecture. Built primarily for vacationing families and large groups of friends, Casa Kalaw incorporates areas that inspire bonding and togetherness, such as the al fresco deck and open- air bar. Emphasizing the sense of the familiar are the selections in the restaurant’s menu: stuffed squid, bistek Tagalog, gambas ajillo, tokwa’t baboy, pancit El Nido and turon.

At the back of Casa Kalaw is the resort’s second hotel – the charming Balai Adlao (a Visayan term that translates to “house of the sun”). When the sun is out, we were told, sunlight bathes the glass-walled restaurant fronting the hotel to give it a dazzling shimmer. Built of stone and wood, Balai Adlao is architect Conrad Onglao’s paean to the classic bahay na bato (stone house). Tall wooden beams propping the slanting roof bring to mind the native tukod – a piece of bamboo stick – used to prop up the window covers of the traditional bahay kubo (literally, cube house). Inside the rooms, wooden floors give off a warm glow. Adorning the bed is a blonde solihiya weave (woven rattan strips) on the headboard and edge. On the walls are framed prints of flora endemic to the island. “Another attractive feature of Balai Adlao is the sky deck with an open-air bar deck,” notes Cerqueda. Here, one can enjoy a cocktail while watching the golden afternoon sun kiss the placid waters of the bay.

It’s not clear whether Hotel Covo gets its name from the word “cove,” or from a play on the native “kubo”, the small nipa hut that still serves as home to many Filipinos in deeply rural communities. What is immediately apparent is the playful spirit of the hotel that greets guests upon entering. Paintings in vivid colors, oversized bean bags and cushions in pastel tones, graphic black and white mosaic tiles all add up to communicate hipness and an easygoing vibe. Rooms are colorfully designed with photo murals of Philippine scenery and colorful PVC tubes sticking out in strategic areas. The tubes, the room boy told us, can be used in a variety of ways – as a cellphone cradle, as container for earphones and other thingamajigs.

Towards the beachfront, guests can head to Shops @ Lio; go shopping and pick a sunscreen lotion, a fashionable swimwear, or the latest snorkeling gadgets. One can also enjoy scrumptious eats and luscious cocktails in any of the bars lining the beach. But those who want to commune with nature can have a tour of the complex on board bamboo bikes that take one from white sand beaches to primeval forests. The more intrepid traveler can take a hike on the nature trail, follow the path to the estate’s highest point, and be amply rewarded with a 360-degree view of forest, sea and sky.

Ten minutes or so from Lio Estate Resorts is another hotel tucked in a lush garden that commands a spectacular view of Bacuit Bay and the outlying islands. Called El Nido Cove, the hotel’s secluded location on the edge of a mangrove forest makes it an ideal getaway for couples who wish to go under the radar and escape the stresses of city life.

El Nido Cove offers three types of accommodation: Garden Rooms that look out into the resort’s greenery; Forest Rooms in the middle of a tropical jungle; and the coveted Beachfront Rooms that face Bacuit Bay and Cadlao Island rising like a behemoth from the sea.

Here, when the sky is clear and where the waves are gentle, one can row out into the sea on board a kayak. In the middle of the blue waters, amid the limestone monoliths jutting from the sea, one can get lost in the grandness of an untouched paradise.

LIO AT LEISURE
Showing a healthy and genuine concern for nature doesn’t necessarily mean missing out on the fun, like a bonfire on the beach with a bottle of beer in hand. This much is evident at Lio Tourism Estate. While guidelines have been put up and strictly enforced to ensure the healthy and continuous flourishing of nature within the estate, having a good time is still an integral part of the Lio experience. Shops @ Lio along the beach offers innumerable opportunities for chilling, drinking and all-out food bingeing.

MANILLE BEACH BAR
Owned and operated by the country’s oldest distillery, Manille Beach Bar showcases the world-class liqueurs and spirits by Destileria Limatuaco. “Manille Beach Bar features the Philippine Crafts Spirits collection by Destileria Limatuaco,” says operations manager Clark Michael Bayalas. The bar uses the spirits in many of the chows they serve. The Amadeo Beef Ribs, for instance, uses the deep flavor of the Amadeo Coffee Liqueur to achieve a full-bodied taste. The sweet Paradise Mango Rum Liqueur imparts a tropical flavor to the dressing of the Paradise Salad.

The strong attraction of Manille Beach Bar, however, is its drinks. Thanks to the expertise of bar manager and consultant Larry Guevara and marketing director Sharleen Antonio, foreigners are beginning to discover the superior flavor and quality of Philippine-made spirits. The two, founders of and partners at Liquid Concepts, have created thirst-quenching treats like Manille Basil Smash (a cocktail of Empire London Dry Gin, Manille Lqueur de Calamansi, lemon juice and basil leaves) and the Calauit Park Swizzle (Old Captain 5 Year Old Rum washed with guava juice and topped with angostura bitters).

But wait ’til they serve the Flight to Lio, a collection of four cocktails. Sharleen clambers on top of Larry and, with four shakers in hand, proceeds to pour the brightly- colored liquid in a perfectly-placed row of four martini glasses, as seamlessly as the lapping of the waves. Bravo!

PAIR-A-DICE BURGER BAR
Dominick Fresina looks every inch the hot DJ that spins the mix every girl would love to dance to. But make no mistake, this dude with boyish good looks is a creative businessman. Having lived and worked in Taiwan for years, spinning his music and conceptualizing bars, he decided to seek other frontiers. He landed in and promptly fell in love with the Philippines’ last frontier, Palawan. “How could I go wrong? This is the best island in the world,” he reasons. At Lio Tourism Estate, Fresina has established the Pair-A-Dice Burger Bar. “It’s just a play on the word ‘paradise.’ But pretty soon, I will really put dices on the tables so people can have fun while waiting for their orders.”

But the real stars in this cool joint are, of course, the burgers – hefty, flavorful burgers. Try the Pair-a-Dice Burger topped with bacon, friend onions and pepper jack cheese, smothered with sour cream and BBQ sauce. In the mood for a panini? The Chicken Bacon Ranch – grilled chicken with bacon, ranch sauce and cheddar cheese – will certainly satisfy your cravings.

Perched on a 2nd-floor unit and overlooking the beach, Pair-A-Dice is also the perfect place to enjoy some potent concoctions. We suggest the Virgin Piñacolada, the Crazy Monkey, or the Pair-a-Dice Pleaser.

GLOBY TRAVELING CHEF BAR & RESTO
Ever since it opened in Boracay years ago, Globy has earned the staunch loyalty of foodies. Now, the resto, owned by Rosalia and Reinhard Gehrer is attracting hordes of new fans in Lio Tourism Estate. “We opened just last March,” says officer-in-charge Ma. Teresa Seastres, “but we are already enjoying the appreciation of hotel guests and outsiders.”

Globy serves a host of international delights – from all-time Filipino favorites such as pork sisig and kare-kare, to the Indian chicken tikka masala, which is a spicy stew served with pita bread. The hearty-of-appetite will surely enjoy the Colombian Backpacker which is a chunk of grilled beef tenderloin on a bed of lemon-doused vegetable salad and dices of feta cheese.

EL NIDO GRILL
James Aquino is an owner of a construction firm that took projects in El Nido. He decided to stay on and transfer his business operations to El Nido after falling in love with the beauty of the place and the warmth of its people. Today, apart from his construction business, he has also branched out into the restaurant business by putting up the popular El Nido Grill in Lio Tourism Estate.

El Nido Grill is not at all a formal and fussy dining address. Here, one can enjoy typical Filipino food at leisure and, if need be, using one’s hands. Inspired by the usual ihaw-ihaw restaurant, El Nido Grill serves charcoal broiled dishes like grilled liempo, grilled fish, chili crabs, pork tenderloin barbecue and spicy squid stewed in chinchalok sauce (a Malaccan seasoning made from fermented baby shrimps or krill). The fish and shellfish are sourced locally, supporting the livelihood of the local fishermen. It also serves refreshing drinks such as cucumber lemonade, and a unique version of buco juice: the juice and meat have been shaken in a blender and served on the coconut shell – a must try.

PUKKA BEACH BAR AND RESTO
Looking for somewhere to party? Pukka Bar is the perfect place to let go and chill the night away. Already a go-to name in food and entertainment in El Nido, the bar has made its presence felt in Lio Tourism Estate. The groove of reggae beats dominates the air at Pukka Bar in Lio to provide the ideal ambience for a night of wining, dining and partying. Refreshing cocktails, wine, liquor and ice cold beers make this a popular haunt among vacationers who want to unwind. But Pukka Bar isn’t just a watering hole. It's also a great place to dine. Bestsellers include the Nachos Bowl Supreme served with a piquant creamy bean dip, crispy calamares and kinilaw. Those who hanker for a more filling meal should try the pork spareribs served with fries and the juicy rib eye steak.