SNACKING IN SAPPORO
Of course, Japan is a gustatory haven, and I am not talking of just your everyday Japanese sushi here. Sapporo has its own unique flavors that are, shall I say, endemic to this capital of Hokkaido. With five days of savoring different food and restaurant locations, let me just tell you about those that stood and I would very highly recommend.

I dare say in this case that Hokkaido should be the snack capital of the world. After visiting the Hokkaido Shrine, Hokkaido’s tourism representative, Sato, brought us to a small structure and came out with a little bag of goodies. They were Japanese snacks and treats. As we went through each sachet, we kept telling each other, “Hey you have to try this one.” After the third treat, that was it, I was inside the store with a basket, just hauling anything I could get my hands on. Little did I know that we were stopping by a grocery the following day. In this grocery, I was like a boy in a candy story, and I was just dumping in my basket whatever my hands landed on. I bought so much I reached the minimum of 5200 yen, free of consumptions tax. However, there was a caveat – I cannot eat them in Japan. No wonder my shopping bag got sealed. Is this their form of torture? Luckily, I still had my mini-haul the day before.

MORE TO SAVOR: EATING GENGHISKHAN
Have you ever eaten Genghiskhan? Yes, THE Genghiskhan – well, at least it’s named after that popular historical figure. It is a Sapporo specialty. On a convex cast iron skillet, with constant fire underneath, a piece of lamb fat is placed at the apex. “What is that?” I inquired. “That is lamb fat and its fat is induced to dribble down the skillet for flavor,” Sato-san said. We then took the mutton slices laid out in front of us and placed them on the grill, turning it as they cooked. As I placed the buttery meat in mouth, I was not prepared for the delicious taste of the mutton as it slowly disintegrated in my palate, giving me the most delicious flavor I have ever tasted. There was a sweetness to the meat and if that was what they called “umami” then I guess I just tasted the perfect umami. The rice and vegetables on the side were the ideal complement for the triumphant explosion of flavors of Genghiskhan. And to keep the flavor going, that small piece of lamb fat is replaced with a new one once it has dried out. If you are a foodie traveling to Sapporo, this is a must. You will know from the length of the queue outside the restaurant. Make sure you have your high blood medicine – just in case.

And last, but certainly not the least, is dessert. Who knew that Sapporo has a parfait culture? From the French word – perfect – Sapporo has certainly taken this dessert to perfection only the Japanese will know how. The restaurant was long and narrow, with an elevated Japanese-style eating area on one end. With low tables and pillows on the floor, this was to be our reserved area. The jaded urbanites we were, we perused the menu. Not giving it much thought, we went, “Let’s see, what flavor do we want?” as we started thinking of the combination of ice cream flavors we were most pining for. After making our choices, we saw the parfaits as they came out of the preparation area. I had a certain amount of disbelief at how beautiful these ice cream concoctions looked. Finally, when our orders arrived, there was a collective “wow” because each one was truly a work of art. Called shime parfaits, or “conclusion parfaits,” these ice cream creations looked more like whole meals in themselves than a conclusion to an evening dinner. After spending what seemed to be an eternity of photographing these digestible artworks, it was beyond belief how delicious and, indeed, perfect the combinations of the ingredients were. Every bite was like hearing Beethoven’s Ode to Joy in the background. “Get me out of here, quick!” I thought, otherwise they would have to roll me out the door. With more than a third of dairy farms of Japan located in Hokkaido, it is not surprising that they produce some of the best ice creams in the country.

AFTER DINING, GO SHOPPING
Let me start the shopping experience with art. “Myomu” or “Key to a Dream” is an imposing organically shaped white carrara marble sculpture with a keyhole at the center. Despite its cold feel, and because of its rotund form, it invites every viewer to hold it gently like a pillow. Apparently, Hokkaido native, Kan Yasuda’s works, always have this perceptible tactile quality that begs for human interaction. Located at the western concourse of the JR Sapporo Station, it is the best landmark as a meeting point for people who are about to start their shopping spree.

“We will meet here by 4:00,” instructed our guides as we were let loose to explore the vicinity. This waiting area alone connects to five shopping establishments. When the designated time came, we accessed the famous Sapporo Ekimae-dori Underground Walkway. For 1.2 kilometers, extending all the way to Pole Town, we walked the climate-controlled hallway that was literally overflowing with over 150 shops. One does not have to go above ground for one’s needs. I may be wrong, but I noticed food outlets were few and far between in the whole stretch.

“This chi-ka-ho, or underground shopping area, was created because of the harsh six to eighth months winter that Sapporo experiences,” Eri, our local guide informed us. Whether one aims to shop or just use it as a pass through to get to one’s destination, it is certainly a welcome safeguard from the harsh winter climate of Sapporo.

Another shopping stop we went to was the Mitsui Outlet Park where branded merchandise were available at discounted prices. “We have two buildings connected by a bridgeway, two floors and over 170 stores here,” Eri said, being questioned by the girls in the group about her skin regimen. I did not hear it, but there was a sudden collective scream of incredulity, it turns out Eri told the girls her age and everyone was expressing either disbelief or frustration, or both, about Eri’s skin depsite her age. Meanwhile the climate-controlled temperature inside was a welcome relief from the biting winter chill outside the building.

But Sapporo shopping is quite unbelievable. It was like Hong Kong or Orchard Road that has turned into a city. It was one shop after another, be it via downtown, side streets or just walkways. Whether you are looking to grab a meal, buy groceries, need meds from a pharmacy, or even rent a kimono, everything is within arm’s reach. It is the best alternative to Tokyo if you want a less frenetic environment to shop in.

So the next time you want to visit Japan and experience their 21st century culture, make Sapporo your next stop. It will warm your heart to experience that what you think is ancient is actually current.