WORDS BY ANGIE DUARTE
IMAGES BY GABRIEL DELA CRUZ
I sit in a chaise lounge on the expansive poolside veranda of The Hanging Gardens of Bali and watch as an afternoon deluge transforms the sunny oasis into something more ethereal. The rainforest takes on a certain beauty in wet weather: raindrops glisten, caught in delicate balance on leaves, petals, and all manner of trees and shrubbery. Mists shroud the thicket of jungle in mystery, brimming with a magic as primal as nature itself. The fog comes rolling in, and an amorous aura wraps its arms around the forest, gently embracing the resort. This award-winning resort is a multi-faceted gem in the heart of the Payangan Jungle, in the Gianyar Regency of Bali, Indonesia. Steeped in romance, it is also imbued with a sense of spirituality. A small wonder, given its serene setting, and the fact that it is a mere 11 kilometers north from the town of Ubud, a seat of religious ceremony and faith in the Island of Gods, Bali’s mystical moniker.
The rain passes, taking my musings with it. The sun once more breaks through billowing clouds which reflect on the waters of the property’s “Best in the World” two-tiered swimming pool. The Hanging Gardens Temple, for which this luxury resort in Bali is named, comes into view, in its seemingly precarious perch on verdant cliffs just opposite from the facility. I am overcome with a deep sense of gratitude. This is the stuff of which the sweetest dreams are made – and I am blessed beyond belief to be here.
IN AWE OF NATURE
The next day is sunnier than the previous one. “Good morning, Madam! Beautiful day, today,” says the operator of the bamboo-and-glass funicular, as we ascend from the luxurious abode that is our villa – one of 44 well-appointed suites on the property – to the breakfast area. “The sun is shining very freshly from nature,” he adds, in more-than-slightly accented English. I assume he means very brightly; then again, I look around at the pure, unspoilt lushness of my surroundings and concede that “freshly” works, too. Nature reigns supreme here, and the resort co-exists in perfect harmony with its surroundings. As far as authentic experiences go, this one-of-a-kind nature retreat is as amazing, regal, and real as it gets.
As I delight in my delicious, healthy quinoa breakfast bowl, it comes to my mind that while the resort bears the name of the sacred grounds directly across from it, the legendary Hanging Gardens of Babylon are likewise a fitting comparison. Though the existence of the multi-tiered, much-storied garden from antiquity has not been definitely verified, literary accounts have long hailed it as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. I imagine that the fresh, vivid, verdant 3.2-hectare parcel of land on which the Hanging Gardens of Bali is ensconced is comparable to the epic lushness and purported breathtaking beauty of its possibly mythical counterpart. With thousands of species of flora and fauna that are part and parcel of a healthy ecosystem, nature is both revealed and revered in this paradise in the jungle.
“We offer this resort as a place to recharge. In a world that is full of busy-ness, you hardly get places like this that offer tranquility,” shares the gracious and beauteous Fitri Peretz, one of The Hanging Gardens’ founders and owners. “It’s very, very difficult to find a place that offers this kind of peaceful atmosphere. There is a soul that you feel, even as you step into the resort. You feel it; you cannot even describe it in words. And one of the reasons you feel it is because we built it with love. The resort is like our baby. But we also built it because of our love for nature.”
TAPPING INTO THE LIFE FORCE
As Fitri so insightfully points out, the ability to retreat inwards, to find oneself is “as endangered as some of the species in nature.” As such, it is the resort’s mission to help its guests along the path of reconnecting with self, through a connection with nature’s very life force. Whether it is luxury ecotourism you’re after, or are simply looking to recharge in nature’s lap, you’ve come to the right place.
The spirit of The Hanging Gardens resonates a deep respect for nature’s energy, and this is evident in its very construction. “We work with nature – it’s hard to explain, but somehow nature chooses you and you do not even realize it,” Fitri said as she recounts how they spotted the parcel of hillside land nearly 15 years ago, and that it was the only area in the jungle which was relatively bare (they would not have built, had there been trees in the way). So, the process of building began, and the resort opened 13 years ago, with major renovations having taken place in the last five years. The landscape is now a gorgeous green thicket, dotted with luxuriant Balinese-hut-inspired villas and the majestic Hidden Palace, which, with five suites, large living spaces, its own lap pool, and even its own funicular, is the most opulent, exclusive villa of them all.
Meanwhile, the Spa Collection, which features the extravagant Spa Suite, stands at the lowest point of the property, strategically located by the gracefully undulating waters of the Ayung River. Imagine, getting a signature spa treatment or a traditional Balinese massage from expert therapists while the sound of rolling, rippling water brings healing to your inner being. This is bliss. A lovely stroll from the spa down to the riverbanks reveals a mini-temple carved out of natural stone, as well as a quaint bridge which crosses the river. Guests may enjoy afternoon high tea at the spa café, or arrange for a gourmet picnic by the banks of the longest river in Bali, perfectly capping a day of rest and repose.
Even the bi-level infinity swimming pool was constructed in harmony with its natural setting. “We built the pool according to the contour of the land. We did not want to disturb the shape of nature too much. You could even say that nature made our pool,” Fitri noted.
LUXURY, NATURALLY
Without a doubt, the Hanging Gardens is rich in the area’s natural wonders. From its super hospitable, smiling-faced staff and the seamless service they provide, to its topnotch facilities, it comes as no surprise that this luxury resort in Asia was awarded the coveted seven-star rating. In fact, it is the first boutique hotel to receive this distinction, the Seven Star Award, conferred at the fourth annual Seven Stars Luxury Hospitality and Lifestyle Awards in November 2018.
At The Hanging Gardens, luxury bears the expected outward hallmarks: spacious villas which lack for nothing, top-rated amenities, and the finest of dining experiences, for instance. But as any discriminating traveler could tell you, the true distinguishing factors of luxury are in the details – like frangipani-infused cold towels at your table setting and fresh coconut water served in husks hot-iron-branded with the resort’s logo, or a tea service presented in 100-year-old fine French porcelain, and hundreds of tea lights that illuminate the pool and pathways, painstakingly set each night by dedicated staff. These small touches and others like it, indeed, make a big difference.
UNIQUE CULINARY EXPERIENCES
Truly, it is all too easy to be swept up in the lush and luxe beauty of the resort. But the blissful blowout does not end there. The Hanging Gardens of Bali not only wins over your spirit, it also captivates your appetite. Every meal at the Three Elements Kitchen, Lounge & Bar is a gratifying meeting with the gustatory gods. From its healthful, flavorful breakfast buffet and bestselling à la carte dishes to its more lavish chef’s degustation, Three Elements is all about crafting deliciously unique culinary experiences. While everything (and I do mean everything!) I ate during our stay tickled my taste buds and pleased my palate immensely, there are some foodie favorites on the menu.
Among these are the 45 Degrees Salmon, which is plump and juicy salmon cooked at 45 degrees, with a beautiful salty-sweet glaze of soy sauce and Japanese mirin rice wine, topped with a subtle yellow onion gel, served with a refreshing side of seaweed salad. From surf to turf, the Flaming Wagyu Beef dish is not to be outdone in taste and tenderness. Flanked by seasoned shimeji mushrooms and asparagus spears, this blazing specialty is as much a visual treat as it is a satisfying meal. For the ultimate in Indonesian-inspired indulgence, the Nasi Goreng Satu Juta is a must-try. This mouthwatering fried rice dish is a major production served with Black Angus strip loin, salmon, lobster tail, spiced tempe (a local delicacy of fermented soya beans), and slow-braised pork belly.
And, of course, in keeping with the resort’s mandate, all ingredients that go into every dish are laden with fresh, farm-to-table goodness. In fact, many of the fruits and veggies are grown on site. “We must get to the harvest before the monkeys do, though,” Fitri lightheartedly said.
Dining pleasure is not limited to the restaurant itself, mind you. Guests can arrange for a poolside dinner under starlit skies, or at the holy Dalem Segara (among the most spiritual temples in Bali, with a Balinese priest or “mangku” on hand to perform a ritual of blessing), and even in a secluded spot in the heart of the jungle.
Showers pitter-patter on the villa roof as I pack my bag come our day of departure; our three-day stay seems to have come full circle. The sound of the rain, as it grows stronger, is oddly reassuring: I know the downpour shall pass, infusing the area with freshness, in all its sublime splendor. In that moment, I find myself renewed, invigorated and already wishing to return.