CAMIGUIN:

In the Island Born of Fire

Traveling to this southern gem of an island off the northern coast of Mindanao will expose you to enchanting sights and delectable delights

words by Willy Marbella
images by Janb Dayrit

“The artist must create a spark before he can make a fire and before art is born, the artist must be ready to be consumed by the fire of his own creation.” – Auguste Rodin

Rodin must have been talking about Italian native and now-Camiguin resident, Alessandro Cucchi (pronounced “kooky”), owner of La Dolce Vita Italian Restaurant, when he came here (he was told about Camiguin while vacationing in Cebu). He fell in love with the woman he would soon marry, and he finally got out of their family car dealership business in Italy, to open the restaurant of his dreams. And taking after how Camiguin is referred to as “the island born of fire,” it can be said that a passionate fire was the essential ingredient to making his dreams come true. The passionate traveler who gets to see Camiguin will definitely understand how a stranger can be mesmerized and find a home in this beautiful island.

A CHARMING AND MYTHICAL ISLAND
Camiguin was indeed literally born by fire. A series of volcanic eruptions in the olden days kept creating and adding to the terrain of the island. Now, there are more than a dozen volcanos in this tiny island, with some being parasitic, meaning they are at the flanks or sides of a larger volcano. The famous Mount Hibok-hibok is in the municipality of Mambajao and has attracted, and still attracts, avid mountaineers. Curiously enough, a volcano may give and it may take away. Mount Vulcan in the municipality of Catarman erupted and sank a whole cemetery. Now there is only a cross above water to remind their loved ones of what happened. Poignantly enough, it is also one of the best places to see Camiguin’s phenomenal sun set.

The jagged feature of Camiguin lends itself well to a number of waterfalls. But it is Katibawasan and Tuwasan Falls that are the most famous because of accessibility. Katibawasan is 250 feet or a little over 76 meters high, and is meant for those who would like to just be surrounded by nature. It is lush, and the sound of birds and the waterfalls is absolutely calming. Being there is like having a massage but in an auditory manner. Swimming in its pool is not prohibited. Tuwasan, on the other hand has a peppier energy, maybe because it easier to reach. One can choose between the big pool where the falls end up in, and a smaller pool where the water of the big pool pours into. The stream that followed was just as inviting.

Outside the confines of the mainland are island beaches that will take your breath away. A 20-minute boat ride, depending on the wind and waves, will get you to the White Island. It really is a giant sand bar that never sinks. We were the first in the waiting area of Yumbing in Mambajao around 5:30, but even before the dispatcher arrived, other tourists arrived as well. The objective is to get to the island before the sun peaks because there is no vegetation nor structure to hide from. By the time our outrigger was on its way to the island, a line has formed. In the island, it didn’t take long before a man in a banca came with a basket and in it is a hoard of sea urchins. Uni, we all exclaimed. Our photographer, John, treated all of us to an uni each for P50, for every three.

Mantigue Island meanwhile is directly opposite White Island, east of Camiguin. What should have been a 10 to 15 minute banca ride took 20 or so minutes because the winds had the waves rolling our banca. Nevertheless, the pristine white sand of Mantigue was worth the ride. Unfortunately, strong winds prevented me from snorkeling the area and discover what is underneath its stunning blue waters. An alternative activity is to walk the boardwalk of the mangroves in the middle of the island. It wasn’t very long, maybe a 20-minute walk, and I was begging for more. Little did I know a surprise was waiting for me back in the main land.

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ROAMING A MANGROVE FOREST, COMING HOME TO SWEETNESS
After that short introduction to a mangrove forest in Mantigue, we went back to the main island and wallowed in the beauty of Katungga Mangrove Forest. After paying our entrance fee of P50 each, we began to amble on the elevated boardwalk that meandered around huge mangroves. Being more than two centuries old, these mangroves reminded me of the forest Snow White ran through. This, however, was more extensive. Because there were cottages, it wasn’t just one trail that went around the entire area, but certain corridors led to these cottages. Despite my menacing description, it was rather a very enjoyable, pleasurable experience. The whole mangrove opened out to the sea that certainly generated a generous amount of wind. There were seats where we stop, marveled and took selfies with these mangrove-trees that are rarely seen. If you are an Instagramer, this is one of the many spots in Camiguin that you could take advantage of. Your followers will never know where you are.

Speaking of unfamiliar surroundings, The Beehive fits the bill to a T. Getting out of the car, I was welcomed by a gigantic bulol, an Ifugao rice god with an equally gigantic bee on its head. The whole front was delineated by an intersecting sinuous wood wall that reminded me of the mangrove trees we just came from. Stepping inside, it was like a mini theme park where you can choose the “activity” that interests you. Well, basically, it’s a restaurant with a store and a “fish spa” in the middle. It is very bohemian in ambience. Every available place is practically filled to the brim. Tea signages are tacked to the post all the way to the top, coffee choices signage is painted on a piece of wood and is hanging under another signage that says “MACADAMIA”; on the other end is a Buddhist shrine that has a beehive wallpaper behind it with gigantic bees painted on it a few orchids for good measure, and a local machete on top. It was crazy, bizarre and non-nonsensical, but I loved it. In fact, I was rather attracted to the giant mosaic bee on the floor. We had blue ternate flower ice cream too. Even the ice cream flavors were from the left field. To finish it off, the sea view was right outside.

When the word “Camiguin” is mentioned, there is one baked goody that will forever be attached to it – pastel. I am familiar with this baked treat because they are available in the local groceries of Manila as well. Created by the husband and wife team of VjANDEP, the Pastel de Camiguin is a soft bun, as big as a dinner roll, with a custard (yema) filling. We were able to enter the world of VjANDEP and their operations manager, gave us freshly baked pieces to taste, and it was unbelievably delicious. What made it outstanding was the slightly salty taste of the bread that contrasted with the sweet yema feeling of the bun. It was absolutely divine, as everything is, on the sweet island.

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