KYOTO

ALL IN A DAY

Writer-photographer Marco Misa Torres went to Kyoto for just a little over 24 hours, but it’s more than enough time for him to be awestruck.

Words and Images by Marco Misa Torres

One of my favorite movies that has made the biggest impression on me was Memoirs of a Geisha. The film, as well as the book it was based on, transported me back to another era. The sets and the sceneries were so impeccable, I have since yearned for the day I could walk the steps of Sayuri-san, the iconic role portrayed by Zhang Ziyi in the film.

The image of little Sayuri running along a narrow orange path was too unforgettable. I would later on learn it was a passageway of torii (sacred gates) that led to the Fushimi Inari shrine. With that image wonderfully etched on my mind, I took the first opportunity I could to traverse Kyoto. Thankfully, the former capital was just a shinkansen ride away from Tokyo.

As I jumped into the JR Train, my stomach was filled with butterflies. The thought of the images from the film coming to life was too exhilarating. I had just planned to stay overnight in Kyoto but the avid traveler in me was determined to see as much of the sights as I could. Hopefully, I would also have luck on my side for that rare “geisha” sighting, I thought. My first whiff of the city did not disappoint. It was clear that very soon, I would have my very own unforgettable reminiscences of it.

A thousand-year-old empire and its treasures

Kyoto, which directly translates to “capital city”, is the capital of Kyoto prefecture, on the island of Honshu in the Kansai region of Japan. It is renowned for its classical Buddhist temples as well as gardens, imperial palaces, Shinto shrines and traditional wooden houses. It’s also known for some of Japan’s world-renowned traditions such as the kaiseki, a dining ritual consisting of several courses of precise dishes; and of course, my favorites, the geishas, female artists trained in the art of entertainment, who are often found in the Gion district. Clearly, Kyoto’s long imperial history has left its mark on every nook and cranny.

If you enjoy ticking World Heritage Sites from your bucket-list, you’ll be ticking away like crazy in Kyoto, which has about 20 percent of Japan’s National Treasures. Kyoto, along with Uji and Otsu cities, was designated a World Heritage site in 1994. With the tag UNESCO Heritage Site Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto, this means you’re not just seeing amazing sites here, you’re also treading on one.

8 sights to see

Also known as the Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji is one of the most popular structures in Japan attracting a large number of visitors annually. The Golden Pavilion is a three-storey building on the grounds of the Rokuon-ji temple complex. Its top two storeys are covered with pure gold leaf. What we actually see now is a reconstruction completed in 1955, five years after the original was torched by one of the temples’ monks. While there, make sure you find that perfect spot across the lake for the best photos. From that vantage, I saw the golden pavilion mirrored dramatically on the pond below.

Ginkaku-ji is a Zen temple, whose name literally translates to “Temple of the Silver Pavilion” located in the Sakyo ward of Kyoto opened in 1490. It is known as the Silver Pavilion because of the initial plans to cover its exterior in silver foil. However, by the time it was built up until now, not one trace of silver was used on it. Its sand garden has a carefully piled mound of sand that symbolizes Mount Fuji, which is an essential element in the garden.

Opened in 778AD, Kiyomizu-dera is an independent Buddhist temple in Eastern Kyoto nestled in lush greenery. Not a single nail was used in its construction. Kiyomizu means “clear water” which is where it derived its name from. There’s a pond beneath the main hall known as the Otowa waterfall that you can drink from. Its water is believed to have wish-granting powers. During the Edo period, there was a tradition of jumping off the Kiyomizu stage as it was said that surviving the 13-meter plunge meant one would have his wish granted. Don’t bother making a wish and emulating the 85 percent successful jumpers because the practice has long been outlawed.

Head shrine of the god Inari, Fushimi Inari-Taisha is located in Fushimi Ward in Kyoto. It sits at the base of a mountain also named Inari. There are several thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, but Fushimi Inari is the most important. The temple complex’s most notable feature is the long orange path to the shrine. It consists of around 10,000 torii (sacred gates), each one of which was donated by a merchant for a wish to come true or to be thankful for one granted.

Known for its geishas, Gion is filled with shops, restaurants and ochayas (teahouses), where geiko (Kyoto dialect for full-fledged geishas) and maiko (apprentice geishas) entertain. Originally developed in the Sengoku period, the district was built to accommodate the needs of travelers and visitors to the Yasaka Shrine. This place is your best bet for stalking real geishas.

Built in 1679 by the Tokugawa shogunate, Nijo Castle is arguably the best surviving example of Japanese feudal-era palace architecture. The castle consists of two concentric rings of fortifications, the Ninomaru Palace.

One of the finest examples of Zen landscaping in Japan, you don’t need to understand the reasons for the layout of the 15 rocks scattered here in Ryoan-ji. Simply gazing at them is supposed to facilitate meditation.

Lastly, there’s Arashiyama. Located on the western outskirts of Kyoto, the district is often referred to as the mountain across the Oi River and forms a backdrop to the district. There are several notable attractions within the district, which include the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, the Iwatayama Monkey Park and the Moon Crossing Bridge.

Kyoto is renowned for its classical Buddhist temples as well as gardens, imperial palaces, Shinto shrines and traditional wooden houses.

7 Japanese traditional arts

Sighting a geisha, an image as iconic as Japan’s Mount Fuji, is almost as rare as finding the Holy Grail nowadays. Naturally, with tourists wanting to take snapshots of them, they’re now more elusive than ever. If money is no object, you can avail of the services of a geiko along with a maiko (geisha in training) and a jikata (shamisen player) for $900 and for a dinner for two in an ochaya.

If you can’t afford that, however, and are not lucky enough to catch them on the streets of Gion, you can watch them at Gion Corner (Kyoto-gioncorner.com) which has two performances nightly. Here, you won’t just see geishas perform, you’ll experience six other Japanese traditional performing arts: kyo-mai, an elegant and dazzling dance performed by maiko and geiko; koto, an ancient Japanese six-stringed zither; gagaku, indigenous Japanese music and dance performed at the Imperial Court; kyogen, a comical form of theater; bunraku, Japan’s traditional puppet theater; and demonstrations of the art of tea ceremony and flower arrangement.

I had just planned to stay overnight in Kyoto but the avid traveler in me was determined to see as much of the sights as I could.

At Nishiki Market

With a history spanning several centuries, many stores here are still run by the same families for generations. This narrow, five-block long shopping street lined with more than a hundred shops and restaurants is also known as, “Kyoto’s Kitchen”. It specializes in all things related to food. It’s a great place to experience Kyoto’s culinary delights. The stalls here are small and narrow in size, but that’s also because most specialize in a particular food type. Some shops freely give out samples or sell them in small sizes, so this will really be a great place to consume as much Kyoto delights in one visit.

With a smorgasbord of exquisite things to see and do in Kyoto, you’re guaranteed to have a major taste of culture, traditions and heritage sites, whether in a short-stay visit or not. I stayed just a little over 24 hours but can convincingly say that Kyoto is indeed one of the earth’s most awe-inspiring places, and I yearn to return.