Words by Angie Duarte
Images by Gabriel Dela Cruz
To attempt to describe the Balinese town of Ubud in one word would be an exercise in futility, for Ubud is a many-faceted gem. Here, in this center of customary Indonesian arts, crafts, and dance, there resides a spirit of heritage that expresses itself in a multitude of marvelous ways.
While the area has many moods and modes, it is safe to say that if Bali is the Island of Gods, Ubud District (Kecamatan Ubud, locally) is the seat of its collective soul. Surrounded by lush rainforest jungles, the district exudes an ethereal life force interwoven with the profound expressions of a people’s deep faith and rich culture.
Indeed, I would be hard-pressed to pick a single descriptor. But, if I had to choose one word to describe Ubud, it would, perhaps, be ubiquitous, for the town’s spirit is everywhere. It is a pervasive, prevalent psyche that lives in the heart of every person attuned with a deeper, more fundamental sense of self – even beyond Bali’s borders.
A DOSE OF MEDICINE
The town of Ubud is located at the central foothills of the Gianyar Regency, approximately a 90-minute drive from Bali’s Denpasar Airport. While the ride is quite lengthy (and could even take longer, depending on how far into the district you are going) the surrounding scenery is verdant and definitely easy on the eyes, making for a pleasant road trip. Over the last few years, tourism to Ubud has steadily increased, with people from all over the world flocking to the compact town for their own “eat, pray, love” holistic retreat.
It is no wonder that this district, super special in its own right, has become a haven for well-being and healing: the name Ubud is taken from the Balinese word “ubad,” which means medicine. And, as it were, Ubud is certainly one of the best places for some introspection, soul-searching and self-discovery. The area brims with a serenity and spirituality, yet is marked by creativity and a zeal for life, all of which are primal forces that bring healing to a person’s inner being.
STEEPED IN FAITH AND FESTIVITY
Of course, on an island of over 20,000 temples (that is the approximation of the places of worship), you can expect that Ubud is not without its fair share of “puras.” In fact, many of the most popular temples on the Island of Gods are located in and around the district, throughout the Gianyar Regency. There is the 10th century Tirta Empul temple, with its freshwater pools and dozen cleansing fountains, and the 11th century Goa Gajah “Elephant Cave,” an archeological site merely 6 kilometers from Ubud’s busy center. The Pura Tirta Dawa Gunung Kawi Sebatu is a revered water temple, the highlights of which are freshwater purification pools. Then there is the Pura Taman Saraswati which features classic Balinese architecture and a breathtaking lotus pond, easily accessible to tourists as it is located just off the town’s main Jalan Raya Ubud road.
There is likewise the Sacred Monkey Forest, which is not only home to masses of mischief-making monkeys, but also to a complex of temples that date to the 14th century. While you may trek there for more spiritual reasons, be wary of the playful primates. They will not only capture your fancy, but very likely also snatch your sunglasses, hat, keys, purse and whatever other loose items on your person.
As there is virtually a temple around every bend, there is also a ceremony around every corner in Ubud. Prepare to be caught in parades and processions, chanting and dancing when you least expect it.
RICH IN CULTURAL FLAIR
Being the seat of folk art, the district is a window into customary Balinese lifestyle and artistry. Among my favorite things to do when in Ubud is to take a laid-back walk down Jalan Raya Ubud, the main road, and soak in the vibrancy and charm of this quaint township.
The place is dotted with artists’ workshops and galleries; stunning architectural structures, like the 18th Century Ubud Palace; shops laden with indigenous crafts (the most expansive of which is the Pasar Seni Ubud or the Ubud Art Market, a veritable shopper’s paradise); and, further down the stretch of road, customary Balinese abodes and heritage villages. The creative vibe is palpable, as is the warm, lively energy of the place.
Among the must-dos for me is a visit to the Blanco Renaissance Museum, which houses the atelier and masterpieces of prolific, renowned Spanish-American painter Don Antonio Blanco. The maestro once lived in the Philippines, but later on made Bali his home after falling in love with Rondji, an elegant Balinese woman. The museum is captivating for its picturesque gardens, exotic birds and tropical flora, and the impressive showcase of paintings and visual art.
Ubud’s cultural flair extends to the arena of song and dance, as well as to its cuisine. The best way to take in all three aspects is to catch the intensely powerful Kecak Dance performance at the scenic Lake-Leke Restaurant just by the Monkey Forest, while dining on the local specialty, bebek goreng (crispy duck). If hunger pangs strike while you are out and about exploring the town, however, do not fret – there is definitely no shortage of restaurants and cafés serving both local and international cuisine. By nightfall, there are also a number of watering holes where you can enjoy your favorite alcohol and spirits, while listening to talented folk singers and musicians. Come daybreak, the exciting exploration begins once more.
VENTURE INTO NATURE
A highlight of any trip to Ubud is a foray into its abundantly blessed natural environs. There are many sports adventure tours to be had by the adrenaline junkie: everything from white-water rafting down Bali’s longest body of running water, the Ayung River, to ATV-riding and off-road trekking by the majestic rice terraces. The thrills are non-stop and the rush is as exhilarating to the spirit as it is cathartic.
Yoga and spa retreats are also wildly popular in Ubud, with numerous wellness facilities situated all over the district, ranging from budget-friendly to uber-luxurious in cost and quality.
So, when in Ubud, you can revel in the artistic hubbub of the town’s bustling streets or head for the nearby hills and immerse yourself in the calm of a luxury jungle hideaway, such as the Hanging Gardens of Bali.
You can lap up the richness of culture and arts, or quench your thirst for adventure, naturally. You can indulge in your own eat, pray, love moments – again and again. However which way, Ubud will overtake your very being with its unique and ever-present ways. It will work its medicinal magic in your inward parts. And that kind of medicine definitely goes down way, way easy.