KAOHSIUNG

FINDING BALANCE IN THE CITY

In its museums, revived spaces and most unusual new attractions, writer Arkel Mendoza and photographer Mapoo Magracia saw a side of this Taiwanese city that’s different from what tourists usually know.

Words by Arkel Mendoza and Images by Mapoo Magracia

Kaohsiung is the perfect meeting point of tranquility and movement. The serenity of this harbor city is meant to surprise travelers and make them come back to discover more. I have been really fortunate to experience its grandeur and simplicity during its Chinese celebration of Valentine’s Day.

I arrived in the city on time, thanks to the efficiency of China Airlines, Taiwan’s flag carrier. Taiwan’s warm summer day greeted me as I boarded off the plane, ready to discover what awaits in Kaohsiung, which is located south of the country. If you’re a first-time traveler in this city, hire a good tour guide or agency to arrange your itinerary, such as Welcome Travel, which I highly recommend.

Taiwanese treats

According to the general manager of Welcome Tours, Sonia Chan Hui Yen, it’s customary to serve authentic Kaohsiung cuisine to tourists to start their journey. I know that food and culture always go together and what better way to begin my adventure than to eat great food.

I tried the Yah Lian (Taiwanese string beans) in Mei Nung Hakka Restaurant. This vegetable only grows in the freshwater of Kaohsiung and this restaurant serves it as its main course. It’s steamed to perfection to retain the crunchiness of the vegetable. Yah Lian is not only tasty but also very healthy. It was also my first time to eat passion fruit which was luckily in season.

I also tried fresh seafood and traditional noodle soup at Traditional Tainan Feast. Its noodles were prepared in a cart in front of me. The noodles in place, the tasty pork toppings and the steaming broth seeped into every strand perfectly. I truly had a gastronomic feast.

Converted, revived

Kaohsiung used to be the sugar capital of Taiwan during the turn of the century, until the early 1900s. When its factories and storage houses shut down, the government of Taiwan found a way to refurbish these areas and turn them into tourist attractions. I made sure to visit these spaces.

Pier 2 Museum is a cluster of warehouses near the bay. These storage houses were once filled with sugar and fish during the Japanese occupation. The rustic vibe of the place is complemented with a very modern expression of art and retail. I love the different quaint shops and cafes that seem to blend with the museums found here. The stores are a well-curated mix of retail and culture.

Another cluster of warehouses similar to Pier 2 is Bais New World. Built in 1901, this plantation served as a sugar storage facility until it was renovated to cater to the younger crowd. I rode a miniature train that toured me in the different areas of the facility. The main attraction in Bais New World is the Confucius Interactive Area where kids can play board games, virtual reality games and read materials all related to the great Chinese philosopher.

The most memorable for me is the Ten Drum Cultural Village. There are two big storage facilities and an actual sugar factory found in this place. The first storage dome was converted into a café that served Taiwanese coffee and, of course, milk tea. The second one housed a giant slider for kids. The actual sugar factory was transformed into a live performance space for the Ten Drum performers. I was fortunate to watch a performance and the show just blew me away. The drum kids performed their beats on percussion with so much passion that it reverberated and left the audience wanting more.

The whole performance was well lit and sensory elements such as mist, smoke and incense were used to make the performance even more exciting. These converted spaces were all designed to give everyone a sense of the past while still enjoying the beauty of today.

Mixed use developments

From refurbished spaces, I continued my journey to mixed-use developments – large estates with different facilities that cater to tourists. There are two theme parks located at the heart of these developments.

The first one I visited was E-DA Leisure Park. This 90-hectare estate is located on the outskirts of the city. It has a Theme Park (E-DA Theme Park), two schools (I-Shou University and I-Shou International School), an Outlet Mall and two Grand Hotels (Royal Hotel and Skylark Hotel). It’s a destination for the whole family.

E-DA Theme Park is Greek inspired. It has a 1800-seater Opera House that showcases differently themed shows for guests of all ages. I rode the monorail and saw the various attractions there. I also admired the big Greek statues, a giant Trojan horse, columns similar to the Pantheon and other Greek-inspired décor. The park is dotted with theme shops and restaurants, creating romantic and exotic ambience.

I also visited I-Shou International School, home to students from different countries taking post-graduate studies in finance, business, engineering and gaming. There’s even a “Casino Floor” where different table games are situated to train students in casino games.

Taroko Square is located near the Kaohsiung airport. This is smaller than E-DA and caters more to young adults. The façade is a shopping mall while at the center is the amusement park. The food selection included everything from Mediterranean to Asian dishes. There are also foreign and local brands inside the mall.

My favorite, however, is the iRide, a 3D flying theatre built to showcase the beauty of Kaohsiung in bird’s eye view. It opened last December 2017 and has been a popular destination to both locals and tourists. Imagine flying through the different landscapes of Kaohsiung complete with sensory effects and breathtaking music. The experience was just stunning and incredible.

Museums, museums!

No trip is complete without visiting the city’s museums. After the hustle and bustle of theme parks, mixed-use developments and refurbished areas, my trip took a laidback turn when I finally delved into an appreciation of Kaohsiung’s art and history.

The British Museum was the actual office and residence of the British Council in Taiwan. Filled with wax figures in every corner, the different important personalities depict scenes vital to Taiwan’s history and culture. I climbed the steps to the British residence to enjoy the sunset. The effort was all worth it because I saw the majestic view of the Kaohsiung Harbour.

Kaohsiung is best known for the Fo Guang Museum. Located in the Dashu District, this place of solitude and prayer houses the iconic giant Buddha. Upon entering, I was greeted with quaint souvenir shops and cafes in the main hall. As soon as I walked to the main gates, the silence of the pagodas and statues inspired in me some deep reflection. There were lady monks present who reminded me of simple yet meaningful living. Each step here pushed my intentions forward and cleared my mind.

Fine accommodations

stayed in different hotels in various locations during my trip. Kaohsiung has hotels that fit reasonable budgets and needs. If you’re looking for a hotel beside the harbor and Love River, City Suites is a perfect choice. For accommodations near Ruifeng Market, Kaohsiung’s biggest night market, book a stay at City Garden Hotel. If what you’re looking for is a relaxing getaway far from the city and access to sports like wall climbing, zip lining and rappelling, Hotel Cham Cham is right for you. Be sure to try their seafood barbeque platter for dinner. Finally, if luxury and convenience are your top priorities, go for Grand Hi-Lai Hotel, a five-star hotel with excellent amenities, fantastic service, beautiful rooms and a department store located at the ground floor.

Of course, each hotel has a breakfast and dinner buffet serving Taiwanese food and Western cuisine. The best part though would have to be the unlimited probiotic drinks that come in big sizes.

View Gallery

A unique destination

According to the director-general of Welcome Travel, Kang Wei Min, the perfect souvenir to bring home is Kaohsiung’s famous pineapple cake. Vigor Kobo is the best store for these treats. They have different variations of the popular pastry and an actual museum all clustered in seven pineapple-filled floors.

I even tried their DIY pineapple cake making activity. The smell of fresh pastry and the pineapple compound was so rich and inviting that I wanted to eat what I had made on the spot. Don’t worry though, they give you the freshly baked goodie after a few minutes. The brief wait is the opportune time to look around and appreciate the interiors of this store-museum.

Undiscovered beauty

Experiencing Kaohsiung is not just about finding the balance between the old and new. It’s also about the warmth and kindness of its people. Tseng Tzu-Wen, the director general of Kaohsiung City Government Tourism Bureau, mentioned that the real beauty of this city lies in the generous and friendly smiles of its population.

Taiwan is known for its fast-paced environment, colorful and busy night markets, flying lanterns, big skyscrapers and hurried city life. But Kaohsiung is also proof that there is more to discover about the beautiful country of Taiwan. I was really lucky to experience this.